The Ersari Turkmen Weaver’s Project
The Ersari project was started in 1988 to benefit the Turkmen refugees living in
Afghanistan. This project continues the cultural art form of weaving by
maintaining the traditional aesthetic and quality of dyes and weaving.
History
The Ersari have had a long history as refugees. In recent centuries, they were
one of the largest nomadic tribes of Central Asia near Bokhara and Samarkand.
The Russian Revolution displaced many Ersari to the south, in northern
Afghanistan. Recently, the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan uprooted the Ersari
once again. Many fled to Pakistan to maintain their religion and traditional
ways of life. In Pakistan, as the Ersari Vegetable Dye Weaving Project began to
emerge, the refugees embraced the traditional weaving techniques that had
gradually faded from their culture. Initially, the Ersari wanted to combine
traditional designs and weaving practices. Start-up funds were provided by
Cultural Survival in 1988. The Ersari Project used these funds to
purchase wool and dyes for the initial rug production. Slowly, the Ersari began
to employ a greater range of color and design than many other remote Turkmen
tribes.
About the Materials
The principal dyes that are used are madder root for red, indigo for blue, and
isparak flower or pomegranate husks for yellow. Combinations of these dyes are
used for other color variations. The wool is hand carded, hand spun and from
Afghanistan. The wool that is continually sought is the kind most consistent
with wool found in antique Ersari Turkmen carpets.
The Ersari Signature
In the corner of many carpets there is a small inscription from the weaving
family that includes the date and the weaver's preferred choice of identity,
usually "Turkmen Mahajer"-Turkmen refugee. Normally, the inscriptions are in
Persian characters (English translations are available) and serves to connect
the weavers with the ultimate recipient of the carpet. Since the first
production in 1988, the Ersari Project has grown to include 6 Afghanistan
refugee camps in Pakistan. These camps produce approximately 3000 rugs a year
and employ 750 weavers and 3 designers. Revenue from the very first rug
production in 1988 raised enough money to cover production costs as well as
some savings to be used for health care costs and assistance for their eventual
return to Afghanistan.
The Ersari Academy
The ultimate achievement that has resulted from the Ersari Project is the
Ersari Academy. Funds were used to finance a school in Kemalpur, Pakistan, a
town largely inhabited by Afghanistan refugees. In 1994, the Ersari Turkmen
used their revenue to rent a building for the actual school and to employ 6
teachers and a principal. Currently 176 students are enrolled at the Ersari
school. The families of the children who attend the Academy are involved in
weaving for the Ersari Project; an additional 50 students are enrolled for next
term. All aspects of the school: rent, salaries, supplies and tuition are
funded, 100%, from the sale of rugs. Subjects include English, math, history
and Persian script, the official language of Afghanistan.